Creag Mhor and Beinn Heasgarnich – 150+ The Hard Way

[Pollystac]

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Hills : Creag Mhor and Beinn Heasgarnich
Date of walk : Thursday 30th October 2008
Attendees : Malcolm (Farquharson) and Ruth (Pollystac)
OS Map Number: 51
Start of walk: Not high enough on the road to Glen Lyon
Total distance walked: 22 kms (according to the book)
Height Gain/Loss: 1200 metres ascent Drop: Too much between the two hills
Estimated time for walk: 7 to 8 hours
Actual time taken: 8 hrs 45 mins


Yehhhh! Pollystac hits the 150 mark, but what a struggle! Almost catching up with my brother Malcolm’s Munro tally, only 8 behind him. The only thing about going out on a walk with him means I don’t catch up any. Just kidding Malcolm, it’s always a pleasure. Can only apologise for my slow pace on this walk. Hanging around for me in icy cold wind is not fun.

As Malcolm was over with his family for a short visit to belatedly celebrate their Silver Wedding Anniversary and Mum’s 80th birthday, I had reminded him to bring his boots so we could go out for a walk. I had been gutted to have to cancel on him, due to illness, in May when we had planned a big walk in Glenshee. So, after deciding that the weather looked best towards the west, we plumped for Creag Mhor and Beinn Heasgarnich. I hadn’t really studied this walk in great detail. Well I did know the route and what it looks like on the map, but had neglected to take note of the length and amount of ascent. I had noticed that everybody seemed to have taken a fair time to do it (apart from Doogz) but still it hadn’t really sunk in what an undertaking it was, especially with short daylight hours.

We arrived in Glen Lochay at 9 o’clock and, noting ChrisM’s tip of parking at the end of the top track we turned up the road to Glen Lyon at Kenknock. To my dismay there were bits of ice on the road and my winter driving skills leave a lot to be desired. (I think an advanced driving course might be beneficial) Anyway, after Malcolm getting out of the car several times and clearing bits of ice away, we decided this was more trouble than it was worth and abandoned the car on the grass verge. Of course, as we were booting up, a man gaily sailed past in his Hydro-Electric van, waving cheerily, showing how it’s meant to be done. Grrrrr!

Malcolm with Ben Challum behind



Ben Challum, translating as Malcolm’s Hill, Malcolm is leaving till his last. I’m already too late to leave one in Glen Lyon, which is our Family name.

We set off up the road, cutting out a large loop in the road and headed off along the track west towards Creag Mhor. Now I was fine all the way along this track as it is pleasantly flat and the weather was glorious. We had enjoyed the drive up in the car as the weather had just got better and better the further we got away from Edinburgh and the autumn colours were still stunning as we drove up by Loch Lubnaig and round by Killin.

Another dam to add to my collection of dam photos



Sgiath Chuil and Meall Glas across Glen Lochay



The Tarmachan Ridge with Meall Ghaordaidh peeping up on the far left



All the surrounding hills had a fair scattering of snow on them. This was my first outing in the snow of the season and Malcolm reckoned it might even be his first Munro outing ever in October as he is normally only over in February and May and previously during summer months.


Ben Challum and Creag Mhor



And another dam



Autumn colours by Ben Challum



We kept on the track until we were directly below the East ridge, Sron Nan Eun. Of course, we struck off the track onto a path just a tad too early and had to drop down and cross this stream, rather than crossing the bridge which was slightly further down.


Malcolm descending to stream



Lots of dams on this walk



This rock had an unusual covering of moss


Look! Malcolm is behind me here



From this angle the rock looks like a head in profile complete with hair



We did pick up a faint path but tended to pick our own way across heading left below the first craggy bits and then turned back up to the right to gain the easy ridge. It was on this ascent that I realised I wasn’t feeling as fit as I thought I was. I’d forgotten how fast Malcolm goes but hadn’t expected to feel so exhausted trying to keep up. The views were spectacular all around as we made our way up the ridge to Creag Mhor.


An icicle-fall



Beinn Heasgarnich from the slopes of Creag Mhor



Close-up icicle-fall



A fair bit of snow around now



Icy ponds



There were a few icy bits and lots of icicles around. I did hope that crampons would not be needed as we didn’t have any with us, but we were fine as there was a good covering of soft snow and even a set of footprints to follow.

Malcolm with Heasgarnich behind



The way to Creag Mhor from here doesn’t look too strenuous



But what’s all that cloud stuff doing?




As is usually the way, the cloud came in nicely just in time for us to arrive at the summit of Creag Mhor. Of course, if I hadn’t been going so slowly, we would have had wonderful views. My 150th Munro! It had taken us nearly 4 hours. I still couldn’t understand why I was struggling so much and wondered if I was coming down with something.


Those pesky clouds!



It was so cold and the lack of view meant that we just paused long enough for Malcolm to take a pic of me at the cairn and then we took the advice from the Ciccerone book to avoid the steep crags to the east and go west-north-west a short way and then north-west for a bit to find a safe path down a fairly steep grassy slope to the col between Creag Mhor and Beinn Heasgarnich. We stopped for a lunch break on the slope down and, to try and avoid getting too cold, I broke out my bothy shelter.


Lunch stop in bothy shelter



I think possibly, unless it’s raining or snowing, this is maybe more trouble than it’s worth as I’ve not perfected putting it away again in its little stuff sack. Although I had kept my gloves on for this task, my fingers were now like blocks of ice and I had no energy left. I was winding my way down thinking all the way that the drop in between these hills was horrendous. I was wondering how Malcolm was going to feel about me announcing that there was no way I was going to make it up Heasgarnich the way I was feeling. He gets little enough chance to bag these hills. My thoughts were turning more and more to Fatdogwalk’s recent (well not that recent) report where he was sounding like he was ready to throw in the towel. I knew I didn’t feel quite that bad, but was certainly much more ready to sympathise with his lethargy.

I mused that this wasn’t a col between the two hills, it was, in fact, the bottom. When I took note of the height of this col later I found out it is actually 650m, but it felt like it must only be about 300m to me. My hands had warmed up by this time and my lunch had given me a bit of a perk and I decided I should really dig deep and tackle this hill too as I would feel very guilty turning back at this stage.

So we started off up the steep side of the ridge up to Stob an Fhir-bhogha. It was while I was struggling up this steep bit, picking our own way again, I remembered that I had given a unit of blood two days previously. Now I don’t know if this is what’s to blame for my lack of energy, but as I’ve been fine since returning, I’m forced to put it down to this. (Note to self: Make sure you’re not planning any big hill walks soon after giving blood)

Malcolm waiting for me on the slope



The view to Loch Lyon (Can we call it Our Loch?)


Probably the first time we’ve seen it together anyway

Looking west-north-west towards Bridge of Orchy. Possibly Ben Laoigh on the left



And over the shoulder of Creag Mhor



We gained the ridge and more spectacular views. Clouds had all disappeared again and, as time was marching on and I was still dragging my feet, there was a lovely sunset appearing off to the west. This is one of the great things about still being up at the top of a hill when really you shouldn’t still be there. Of course, by the time we’d ambled along the ridge to the summit, the cloud had come in again. But at least I had had the foresight to take a few pics ten minutes before we reached the top.


Ben Challum and the Crianlarich hills behind the ridge of Creag Mhor



Ben More, Cruach Ardrain, Beinn a’Chroin, An Caisteal in the background with Beinn nan Imirean, Ben Challum and ridge of Creag Mhor in the foreground


Malcolm with Meall Ghaordhaidh and Tarmachan ridge behind (I think)



Sun shining on the hills to the south Sgiath Chuill and Meall Glas



More pesky cloud as we approach the summit



Sunset over Creag Mhor



Beautiful sky over the Crianlarich hills


Malcolm bags his last Munro for 2008


Last view before the cloud envelopes us and brings a shower of snow with it



Now we had a decision to make. Which way back to the car. The book gave three options, the quickest apparently being to return to Stob an Fhir-bhogha and drop down to the track from there. Back-tracking is never a popular option with us. And the second option was even less attractive, being to return all the way to the col. The third option, going east to the road over to Glen Lyon, although being billed as the most interesting it is also noted that the bit nearest the road is very boggy and riven with peat hags. Although we hadn’t been sold on this route, it was the one we took, as we figured being down on the road would be preferable in the fading light.

This, of course, is probably the longest of the three options but we got off to a good start when we found a set of footprints to follow and were making good progress before we lost sight of the prints. Then, as we were crossing a particularly boggy bit, Malcolm went in right up to the top of his thighs. So he was now completely soaked and we still had a fair trek down to the road. I had been getting on not too badly until this stage and now, of course, there was an urgency to get back to the car quickly. I was completely exhausted by this time and was so pleased when we finally hit the road just before the light faded completely. It was still a fair walk down the road to the car. If only I’d managed to drive all the way up to the track, we’d have been back quicker. Or if we'd back-tracked to the top of Stob an Fhir-bhogha. But hey-ho, that’s the way the cookie crumbles.

I reckon we must’ve taken eight and three quarter hours and I don’t want to put anybody off these hills as, despite my feeling of despondency at times, it was a cracking walk with some splendid views. But do beware, it is a tough one. Incidentally, I’m writing this two days later and am feeling well up for going out again tomorrow. So it’s not put me off.

Thanks Malcolm for a very challenging, but on the whole, enjoyable day. And many apologies again for the pace. Hope you will still be keen to walk with me next time you're over.

[goth_angel]

Great report and some really good pictures with the moody light. Does look a bit of a monster walk.
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[AdrianL]

I enjoyed that report. Everything looks nice with its winter coat on.

You shouldn't be at all disappointed with your time. I haven't done this walk yet, but your time is exactly what I've estimated for it (although that's without driving up the track at the start). Considering you didn't feel you were going too well, I think you did pretty well.

This is an area I'm considering visiting for a few days next year, and these are two of the hills I'm hoping to do. This report will come in very handy.

[SimonP]

Fantastic report Pollystac, I loved it. Pushing yourself on when you've got nothing left in the tank can be a real strain, so congratulations for somehow finding the energy and completing the round. And a really good set of photos, in spite of the Scottishness of the weather. Thanks a lot for such a good, and frank, report.

I did this pair in early November (2006) and cycled to the dam at 429358.

[Davelaid]

Hi Ruth, well done on hitting 150, looks like it took a lot of effort, but I'm sure that now you realize it was worth it.
Great set of photos too.
Thanks.

[ben-y-hill]

I did the same route as yourself in pretty wet conditions a few years back and found it a real grinder. I still remember myself and my mates getting out of the car for a chippie in Callander and looking like old men staggering across the road as our legs had seized up from the effort! wouldnt fancy it having just given blood.

Huge effort pollystac especially as that reascent to Heasgarnich must be 400+m. Its a great feeling to reach that road but it does seem to go on that extra bit too far as you walk (or stagger for me!) out.

[Meanderer]

Well done to you and your brother polystac. Sounds like a challenging hike even without giving blood first. The 'dig down deep in the face of adversity' reports capture the reality of taking on the mountains. We're small and fragile, they're big and uncompromising - but we conquer them (or sometimes are conquered by them). I find that the struggle makes the reading more interesting. It seems more of an achievement when it's a struggle. The same reason I follow the Iditarod online. Great pictures btw, looks like an interesting place for a few days exploration on a camping exped for me. Thanks for the report and well done again

[stan]

well done looks pretty cold,not sure if i would of
finished the second one.
not long before you catch your brother at this rate.
best just go to glen shiel!!!
great pics yet again

[foggieclimber]

Great report Ruth.

I remember doing these hills and being glad to reach the car after the long walk back out. It is quite a long day.

Another milestone (150) reached.

[dotty]

congratulations on reaching 150, great report and photos. I think your pace must have quite fast to finish in the time you did in these conditions. well done, Ruth. Hope you enjoyed today's walk and look forward to reading that report too.
Dotty.

[Cuillin]

Well done Ruth, having read that report you certainly earned your two Munros and congratulations on topping the 150 mark, just 133 to go!!

Davelaid and I were over doing Meall nan Subh (Corbett) and Meall a' Mhuic (Graham) in Glen Lyon today and were looking over to Beinn Heasgarnich, wearing short sleeves and feeling very warm in the sunshine. Amazing what an inversion can do for you 3 days on.
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Being on the hills gives you a sense of where you are, where you've been, where you're going and why!

[JimH]

Excellent report Ruth. Thanks.

This was my first report when i joined the site almost a year ago. Can still remember the experience like it was yesterday

[andyh]

We found these 2 a really tough day as well, the climb up from the bealach seemed to go on forever. We were booked in to the Y.H at Killin and didn't get there til 10pm think the walk took us about 9hrs although we started at the end of the road without driving up to the high point.

[Hendo]

Great report and pics Ruth, glad that you are feeling better, I felt like that up in Kintail last September, I put it down to not being out for so long, so my fitness level had dropped. I'm sure in your case it was the giving of blood, well done on your 150.
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Ne'er cast a Cloot till May be oot.

[kets]

Congratulaions Ruth on the 150 ..and for doing the whole day feeling below par

Fantastic report and pics! I was thinking of doing these with Ben Challum too...after reading this me thinks not!

Ps Almost crossed paths with you again...I was across the road on Meall Glas and Sgaith Chuil just a couple of days later on the Glen Lochay side. So beware of scary people called Kets wandering the hills! These two hills looked g8 from where I was
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