Western Cairngorms 5 day trip in winter conditions

[mountainman]

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Western Cairngorm, 4 night backpacking trip.
Auchlean – Corrour Bothy – Derry lodge (Bob Scott’s Bothy) – Geldie lodge (Camp) - Ruidh Atechain Bothy – Auchlean. 74km/ 46 miles
Having done several trips from the north (Glenmore lodge) and the south (Linn of Dee) and although I had spent a night in Ruidh Atechain Bothy on a one nighter before, I had not done a multi day backpacking trip from this direction before, so after a bit of map studying, this route was looking good for a start at Auchlean.
Having seen the weather forecast for the week ahead, the first few days were very good, but the last couple were more unsettled, so my plan of doing a anti-clockwise route were out, unfortunately this meant the first day was the hardest (longest and highest) and all with a heavy pack with food etc. for 4 days, but I didn’t want to do the high route over the Cairngorm plateaux in poor weather.
So after travelling up from Wales on Monday and stopping in Newtonmore hostel for the night, I was ready for an early start the next day.

Tuesday 9th March 2010.
Auchlean – Corrour Bothy via Ruidh Atechain Bothy and the Moine Mhor plateaux. Approx 15 miles.
Weather. Brilliant- Sunny, cloudless and calm, visibility- perfect.
Up at 6-30am, the drive to Auchlean was interesting with 2 to 3 foot of snow drifts at the side of the road in parts. As I started walking at 9.45am thankfully the snow wasn’t too deep, making the going fairly easy up Glen Freshie. To make the going easier, I crossed the 1st bridge to walk along the road on the west side of the river Freshie,

Glen Freshie

Glen Freshie

although knowing the 2nd bridge 3 miles further up the glen, had been swept away recently...

Glen Freshie, ex-bridge

but as the river was low, I took the chance that I could cross. I crossed where the vehicles cross just before the ex-bridge, and was no more than ankle deep.
I popped into Ruidh Atechain Bothy to drop off a food parcel for my return in 4 days time; it was good to see the usual supply of wood stocked inside.

Ruidh Atechain Bothy

Ruidh Atechain Bothy

Now the hard work began a climb up to 970 meters, up the excellent but snowy track.

The start of the climb out of Glen Freshie

Nearing the top I had some great views across the corrie towards Carn Ban Mhor and back looking to multi snow clad mountains to the west.

Carn Ban Mhor

West from the upper track

By the time I reached 970 meters the track that leads across the Moine Mhor had disappeared under the snow, so the 4 miles across this high plateaux in poor weather would have been a navigational nightmare, I was pleased that I had done this part today. Although it was still hard work walking across this amazing landscape (my feet were intermittently going through the upper snow crust) with total snow cover, it looked like I was walking across a white dessert of dunes, surrounded by White Mountains.

Moine Mhor plateaux

Sgor Gaoith from the Moine Mhor plateaux

I found no foot prints on my route, only ski tracks criss crossing…the way to get about in these conditions.
Although normally crossing many burns and 2 lochs, today there was no sign of any water; in fact I could have crossed the Lochs without even knowing. As I started to drop from the 899 meter point down Glen Geusachan I was glad to find at last a hole in the snow to refill my water bottle which was now empty.

Glen Geusachan

As I reached the lower glen I passed Avalanche debris which had fallen from high up The Devils Point. Once I had turned to the North to walk the last mile op by the River Dee I left the warm sun for the freezing Corrour Bothy at last ahead.

Corrour Bothy

I reached the the lonely Bothy at 5.05 pm, knackered but fully rewarded after an amazing day.
Even getting water wasn’t easy, the usual burn by the Bothy was totally covered in snow, and the river by the bridge only just had a few small holes showing running water.
It was a cold night in the Bothy, so after a meal and a dram it was in the sleeping bag for an early night at 9 pm.

Wed 10th March.
The Devils Point, Approx 2.5 miles (return). Then walk to Bob Scott’s Bothy. Approx 5 miles.
Weather. Brilliant- Sunny, cloudless and calm, visibility- perfect.

Corrour Bothy, sunrise.

Out of my warm sleeping bag at 6.45 am, and after some breakfast and packing my rucksack ready for the off later, I left the cold sunless Bothy at 8am for the steep climb up the Corrie, after a couple of hundred meters I was in the warm sunshine again, again it was an amazing day, as I climbed I had great views of Ben Macdui and Cairn Toul bathed in early morning sunshine.

Ben Macdui

Cairn toul

As I neared the summit I passed some lovely cornices and once on the top the views were breathtaking.

The Devils Point, looking south

The Devils Point, looking south

The Devils point, looking to Ben Macdui

The Devils point, looking to Bheinn Bhrotain & Monadh Mor

The Devils point, looking to Cairn Toul

The Devils Point, looking up the Lairig Ghru

It took me an hour to get up and another 45 mins later I was back in the Bothy, by now itself bathed in the sun.

The Devils point from Corrour

Corrour Bothy, in winter sun

Carn Toul from Corrour Bothy

Left the Bothy at 10.10am, no need to cross the bridge today!

No Bridge required!

It was a lovely and easy walk down the glen with lovely view up Glen Luibeg to Ben Macdui and Derry Cairngorm,

Glen Luibeg

Glen Luibeg

and down the glen towards Derry Lodge.

Glen Luibeg

I reached the Bothy at 12.45pm, so had a leisurely afternoon, collecting wood for later and pottering about.

Glen Lui by Bob Scotts Bothy

Although the wood was damp, and the fire was never roaring, I had another lonesome night, this time a bit warmer than last night. Another early night at 9.30pm.

Thurs 11th March.
Walk to Geldie Lodge, via Linn of Dee, approx 11 miles.
Weather Cloudy with sunny spells, cold winds, and wintry showers later. Visibility- Very good.

Glen Lui, sunrise

Up at 7.30, away by 8.30, the walk to linn of Dee is an easy stroll,

Linn of Dee

and more good tracks lead westward past White Bridge and through some deep snow drifts up by the Geldie burn.

Geldie Burn

Again crossing the river north of Geldie Lodge was no problem, with a natural snow bridge to help.

Geldie Lodge

I reached the ruined lodge at 1.30pm and was lucky to find a patch of grass in between the building and a 2 foot snow drift, just big enough to fit my tent in, shading me slightly from the biting keen wind.

Wildcamping next to Geldie Lodge.

I spent the afternoon and evening in the tent and sleeping bag as some snow showers started to hit me from time to time. “lights” out by 9pm, but the wind and showers gave me a poor night’s sleep.

Friday 12th March
Walk to Ruidh Atechain Bothy. Approx 9.5 miles
Weather, Cloudy, cold winds a few brief showers. Visibility- good.
Had a bit of a lie in until 8.15am, packed and away by 9.20, the first 4 miles was hard going through some deep snow and as far as I could see no path, although one is shown on the map. I finally picked it up by the waterfalls where my (old) map also shows a bridge, but unless it was higher than I could see was not there any more, but again the snow bridges made the crossing easy. I reached the Bothy at 2.20pm, and with plenty of fuel (the estate keep it well stocked) I had a good fire going from 3.30pm through to the evening when I retired to my bed at 9am, where I slept a lot better that night.

Sat 13th March
Walk to Auchlean, approx 3 miles
Weather. Cloudy, cold and breezy. Visibility Very good.
So after my 3rd solo night in a Bothy, I was up refreshed at 7.20am, and away by 8.30, again crossing the river by the ex bridge, this time a bit deeper with a bit of a thaw in the last few days. I got back to the car at 9.55, then off to Aviemore YH for a well deserved and needed shower!


















The Devils point

[Borderbagger]

Excellent report and photos Mountainman, i really enjoyed reading it. You certainly had a few days of cracking weather. I love the Cairngorms and your photos certainly do them justice.
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[highlandhillwalker]

Cracking report there, looks like a trip to be happy with your own company. Quite a trip for winter as well although it looks like you were lucky with the weather (the wind never comes across in pictures!). Thanks for posting.

[Philo]

What an enjoyable read. Thank you for posting.

[anne3366]

Excellent report of a memorable trip. You must have legs of steel to cover .

[Lochivroan]

Sounded like a magic trip. Some beautiful photos too. Cheers!
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On a clear day you can see Criffel from here!

[SimonP]

A great trip. That looked like a lot of fun. Any more photos?
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Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity.

[AdrianL]

A very enjoyable and interesting wander round the bothies of the Cairngorms. The possibilities for linking up these bothies is almost endless. Certainly provides food for thought, and plenty of inspiration. Don't think I'd do something like this in winter though.
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All you touch and all you see is all your life will ever be

[fertg1234]

Great stuff , a trip to remember and given the conditions that was a real tough expedition. You must be very fit to carry the loads required and to cover that distance .So well done . A classic TR and thanks for sharing your experiences and the great pics.

[LB]

Enjoyed that. Good photos.

[munros111]

you got quite lucky with the weather.
great pics,great report,great trip
thanks for posting

[mountainman]

No more pictures.....I did take more, but I only keep the ones I think are good enough, did,nt even take many on the last few days as it was mainly cloudy and not the best conditions or landscape for good photos.

[keithpostie]

An epic trip making good use of the bothies Great weather, great pics & great location Marvellous!

[Richard]

A very challenging and potentially serious solo trip, I'm very jealous! Thanks for the inspiring photos. Great report.

[dave]

A really great report and the gorms are really growing on me and i had a fantastic week at the Rothy Lodge.I have to admit they were never really my favourite destination until a couple of winters ago.Your report really does show me what i have missed in the past.
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Dave (terrier)